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          舌尖上糍粑的绵香

          更新时间: 2017-03-10 阅读:

            舌尖上糍粑的绵香

            文/迎客松

            有些东西远去了,再也回不来了,但是在记忆中不管时光多么久远,依然那么清晰,那么温暖,那么香浓。

            印象中,每逢时令进入腊月,对于我们这些盼望过年的孩子们来说,腊八以后天天是年。家家户户开始打扫积尘,筹备年货,除了走亲串友必备的礼品须得购买,大多的食品都是就地取材,每一户人家开始宰杀一年来饲养的鸡鸭猪羊,一部分用来腌制,以备年后招待宾客和早稻栽种时农忙期间沾点荤味,一部分新鲜的肉食则悬挂于堂屋的木檩条上,在年节中被一块一块取下来,成了碟中菜肴。

            杀年猪,打年鱼,这些在全国各地大同小异的风俗就不必细说了,我想说说鄂东人家乡村年的风俗之一的打糍粑。

            糍粑讲究的是一个糍性,一定要用品质好的糯米,淘洗干净,不得有一点点砂石,将蒸熟的糯米舂得看不到米粒也是糍的关键。打糍粑时,一般是几家人合伙,一家一家轮着打。因为舂的时候也需四个有劳力的人一起,一人手里拿着一根舂棍(专用的丁字形工具)。商定好打糍粑的日子后,大家开始淘米,备好木柴,把石臼抬到第一户打糍粑的人家。这一天起,村庄里开始飘着糯米的清香,天空着袅娜着淡淡的轻烟。用木蒸(一种圆柱形的木制工具)将糯米蒸熟后,倒进石臼里,四个人开始有节奏地舂着,一起一落,有力道和技巧,一般初参与的人会因为跟不其他人的上节奏而手忙脚乱,往往是力气花了,人也累得不行。

            在热气腾腾的屋子里,听着大人们嗨嗬嗨嗬的打粑声,香喷喷的粑香,馋着我们这些围着石臼和大人们转的小孩。一蒸笼糯米舂成糍粑大约要舂半个多小时,期间打粑的人要将整个石臼里舂过的糯米翻过来再舂,直到看不到饭粒状,糍粑像揉好的一大团麦面一样,柔软而白,估摸差不多时,大人们开始把舂棍插进糍粑里,围着石臼转呀转,接着就听见有人喊了一声“起”,四根木棍同时举起来,一大团糍粑就出了石臼,抬到预先布置好的门板上。这时候,就有人抓起一团热气腾腾的糍粑,包裹一些砂糖递给我们这些小孩,然后他们开始用印子做成各种形状的糍粑来,大的、小的、圆的、方的。隔两三天后,再把凉了的糍粑放进一个小水缸里,浸泡着,过一段时间,再换一次清水,这样就能存放很久,一般做糍粑多的人家可以吃到五月农忙时节。

            糍粑的吃法也很多,常见的是煎、炸、煮,撒上一点盐或者沾点糖干吃,亦或取出一块来煮面条,也可切成小丁块煮米酒,最好吃的当然是下在有荤的汤里,总之,它的味美在于糯、香、软,吃过之后也耐饿。有一种最难忘的吃法和滋味,莫过于家里土灶灶火烘烤出来的糍粑,那皮脆,绵软,糯香,再也寻觅不到了。记得小时候,母亲在做早饭时,常?疽豢轸亵,用手帕包着,送给田地里干活的父亲,也会给我们烤一块两面鼓鼓的,皮微有点焦黄的糍粑。

            那时候,糍粑不光是自己家里吃,也是走亲串戚的礼品,我们会背着一大块去亲戚家拜年,一些亲戚来我们家时也会带着一大块糍粑,一般城里的亲戚都喜欢这些农村自家做的又糯又香的糍粑。而今,腊月里家里也会有些亲戚送来糍粑,但不再是那种纯手工舂出来的了,现在农村里都用机器打粑,种田的人少了,糯米的品质也大不如以前,有些还是以粘米来替代,糍粑的糯性、绵软的味道就不如小时候吃到的一样。那种手工印花的大块糍粑,再也看不到上面的福字,吉祥如意,花好月圆等文字图形,几乎就此绝迹。

            中国农村年,随着生活习俗的变迁,人事苍茫,很多味道,很多百年的风俗,淡了,远了,但是,在我们这一辈人的心里仍然扎着根。

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